Each year, like most small winery winemakers I get very excited bringing in the grapes, doing punchdowns, watching over the fermentations, and pressing the wine; giving an exhausted sigh of relief when the wine is finally in the cellar, topped up, gearing up for its malo-lactic fermentation. And, like many, I get a chuckle out of all the hype about the current vintage being the best ever, yet!
This year was no different in those respects. Particularly when, before fermentation had even gotten a good start, the powers-that-be had already proclaimed 2012 winemakers to be "Giddy" about this year's "Epic" vintage (http://newsroom.oregonwine.org/articles/275280/giddy-oregon-winemakers-headed-for-epic-2012-vinta/). I think it's safe to say that anyone north of highway 22, who had a Pinot fermentation far enough along on October 10th, 2012 to call it "Epic" was certainly "Giddy" - 'cuz the only thing "Epic" about those particular wines will be the acid.
However, in most respects this year was very different than others, and for some winemakers (which I hope to be one of) it may produce a great vintage. The 2012 season began with a long cold, wet Spring; moved on to a disastrous and extended bloom; continued with a moderate summer having virtually no rain through harvest; and ended with the most unusual and beautiful weather: clear, sunny days; with daytime temps in the mid- to upper-70s, daytime relative humidities in the teens; nighttime temps just above freezing; and did I mention, not a drop of rain - at least by the time we harvested our last grapes.
This gorgeous season-end weather, combined with very healthy vines, led to a faster increase in Brix and a slower increase in pH and flavors than "usual". As we neared harvest, truth be told, many growers and winemakers were beginning to worry that we'd end up making high alcohol, high acid, low flavored Pinots - quite a let down from the great growing season we'd had.
Like many vintages, in Oregon at least, the quality of each winemaker's most important decision - when to pick - will determine the quality of their 2012 wines. This year, those who psyched themselves out about the rapidly rising sugars, when acids were terribly unbalanced and flavors were nil, will have a lot of fast-talking to do when their wines are released; those who waited too long will be working on how to put satin on raisiny, high-alcohol pig's ears; some, who by shear luck of the draw as it relates to contract picker logistics and weather patterns during short picking windows, may end up making some very nice wines.
I intentionally delayed posting my final vineyard notes for the 2012 season, because I was unable to tell where the wines were going this year.
Normally, the aromas in the winery give a good indication of how things are going. The fermentation process begins with varying amounts of Volatile Acidity aromas, usually in the form of airplane glue. Later, as alcohol levels begin to rise above 2-3%, the yeasts that produce these metabolites get overwhelmed by the alcohol, and the winery fills with aromas of fruit, and sometimes spice and flowers. This year, except for some tea and tobacco aromas before fermentation, and some early fermentation aromas of black pepper, none of the usual aromas were evident: there was no VA; but more noticeable, was the conspicuous absence of fruit or flower aromas.
Also of note this year were the relatively hot fermentations which proceeded at such a pace that the primary smell in the winery was hydrogen sulfide. Even when the wines went to press,it was difficult to get beyond the meaty flavors to sense the quality of the underlying fruit.
Fortunately, good aeration at the press, extended time in the settling tanks, and leaving headspace in the barrels for a week or so after racking off the gross lees allowed the H2S to volatilize as residual CO2 came out of solution. When I topped the barrels up on November 2, I got the first indication of the potential of the 2012 vintage. The wines at this point have a range of deep, dense fruit flavors with an intense raspberry edge, bright acidity, and smooth long-lasting tannins.
Celeste and I invite you to taste these wines, as well as what we believe are very nice 2010s and 2011s, by appointment, whenever you plan a visit to the Eola Hills.
